The new DIY 240volt RV installation
CMS products allow the DIY builder to fit many of the 240V cables and power points into the walls of the motorhome or Caravan during construction, and therefore limit the onsite time of a qualified electrican to the final connection and testing.

How it works
A standard set-up includes the CSM power inlet that accepts a CMS 240v cable. This first cable is cut and an ELECTRICAN MUST insert a 16amp circuit breaker or 16amp RCD into the cable BEFORE the cable continues to the rear of the first power point. A second cable then also connects to the rear of the first power point and heads off to the next power point. This continues around the RV. You can also place a double adapter into the rear of a power point (extra recess space required) or at the junction of two cables. From here you can branch a new line off the original. This is ideal if you need a low and high power point on one wall, or you wish to start a new line on the other side of the RV. The last power point in a line uses the inlet only and the outlet stays available for future use. You can also end the circuit with an external OUTLET for use outside under your awning.

All power points include double pole switches to comply with Recreational Vehicle requirements.

Lights and light switches are now almost always installed as 12V and can be installed safely by most DIY builders.

All CSM components we sell comply to Australian and NZ standards for installation in Recreational vehicles. AS/NZ 3112, AS/NZ 61535.1 Int):2001 AS/NZ 3000:2000, 250V 50HZ 20amp. A maximum of 10 double or 12 single points can be included in a single circuit.

In addition, a 15amp Circuit breaker or 15amp RCD must be included in each electrical circuit. The circuit breakers are not part of the CSM range at this stage and MUST be fitted by a qualified electrican.
These components are now used by a number of Australia RV manufacturers due to their ease of use.

In designing your cable requirements and installation be mindfull that each cable has a sealed ends that measures 25mm x 16mm. So if it cannot be installed before sheeting it must be able to be fitted thru frame members. All cables have a female and male end to prevent errors in connecting the cables. All fittings have a security clip so once connected they require manual manipulation to separate. Each power point requires a recess depth of 32mm. Mounting blocks are available where the power point cannot be recessed as described. The cables have an outer sheath and when placed within walls should allow extra length for removal of the power point in case replacement is required.

These products are very good quality. For all components search Search website for:' DIY 240v '

 

A traditional 240volt RV installation
The following information is intended as educational only, and will allow the DIY builder to source the parts required for a 240V electrical installation in a Recreational Vehicle. Government regulations insist the installation must be done by a qualified electrician.

 

Extension Lead:
Search ' extension 15amp'

The power supplied to an RV must be delivered by a 15amp power cord.

These are identified by a wider than usual earth pin, to prevent substitution with a 10amp power cord. The wire within the 15amp cords is rated higher and allows for the flow of more electricity than a 10amp cord.

Modifying a 10amp cord with a 15amp plug should definitely not be done. Even a 'heavy duty 10amp cord' should not be used.

Power Inlet:
Search ' power inlet'

Power Inlets come in different styles and different colours.

Insure you use one with a cover for external use, and rated at 15amps. If you have more than one circuit in your RV, you will need extra Power inlets.

The connections at the rear must be covered and the Active or Live (red or brown) and the Neutral (black or blue) wires should then go directly to a double pole circuit breaker.

 

 

Earth Connection:
Search ' terminal eye'

One earth wire coming from the power inlet must go directly to the chassis and be connected with a Bolt and Nut and a Spring washer.

A second earth wire should then go to all power points, hard wired appliances and any lights with an earth connector.

The wire should be at least 2.5mm and is normally green or green/ yellow. (Shown here as white for easy identification in some photos).

Circuit Breaker:
Search ' miniature circuit'

You are legally required to provide a double pole circuit breaker for each separate circuit in your RV.

These are rated at 16amps. RV's with air conditioners typically have a second circuit.

Larger RV's with many appliances may even need three circuits.

Both the Active and Neutral go thru the circuit breaker, so both are disconnected when the circuit is broken.

The Earth does not go thru the breaker, and must be uninterrupted to each power point, hard wired appliance, and 240v light fitting.

Residual Current Device is a circuit breaker with the added safety of cutting off the current when a leakage to earth is detected from between HOT side and Neutral side.

A Circuit Breaker Cover is required to mount the breaker in. It contains two parts - the rear rack and the front cover. It is screwed to an inside wall or inside a cupboard. The breaker is then placed in the rack and wires attached, the front cover secured.

Connectors:
Search 'wire connector'

to find the single wire joiners. These can be used whenever an extra wire needs to be joined in.

Switches:
Search ' switch double'

Each hard wired appliance, and 240v light fitting requires a double pole switch.

Some lights already have their own switch - it must be double pole.

Switches are generally purchased with a cover as a complete single or twin switch.

Even where a Range hood contains its own switch, an additional isolating switch is required away from the stove top.

 

Power Points:
Search 'power point'

The power points we sell have double pole switches.

They can be connected in series (one after the other) with the 3 wires terminating at the last power point.

Where the walls contain a cavity, you can generally use the low profile power points. There are mounting plates and DEEP power points also where there is a problem with wall thickness.

An external power outlet (eg in the annex) can be added to this series.

The number of appliances connected to power points on one circuit that are used at one time should be limited to the 16amps of the circuit breaker.

 

Wiring location:

240V sheathed wire can run through the walls.

Where timber wall studs are 19mm square (photo shows a camper trailer wall which are 42 x 19mm) some stepping or offsets should be used to prevent wall being weakened along a straight line of drill holes.

Where aluminium or steel frames are used, grommets must be used to prevent vibration wearing a hole through the insulation.

If not housed in a wall, all 240v wire must be in conduit. 240v wiring must not be under the floor.

Outlets and switches:

Backing blocks should be placed in wall cavities and all wiring tested before cladding is installed.

It may be a good idea to take photos of wiring to ensure no screws or drill piece wiring once the cladding is installed.

A registered electrician will be required to certify any 240v installation in a new motorhome. As government rules and regulations can vary at any time, this information page should be read in the manner in which it was intended. It is not intended as a replacement for a qualified electrician.