Section A: Removing Damaged
Window A1) Above: With window open, drill rivets from wind
out arms.
A2) Above: Pull both wind out arms free.
A3) Above: While holding window at horizontal, gently
tap window sideways with a block of wood. Tap against the
solid section, NOT the edge. Check which direction the window
will slide without running into an annex rail or other obstruction.
A4) Above: Catch End Plug (We also sell these if
yours are damaged or lost)
A5) Above: Slide window free from frame.
Section B: Remove Winder Control Box and
Fly screen).
B1) Above: Use a flat screwdriver to release top
corner of fly screen. Carefully pull to remove complete screen.
B2) Above: After you have removed the fly screen,
you will be able to access the Winder Control Box screws from
the outside of the van.
B3) Below: Unscrew top and bottom screws from both
Winder Control Boxes.
B4) Above: You can remove the cross shaft by pushing
into the left winder box, or remove both Winder Control Boxes
and the crossbar out as one unit. They can come apart so you
need to make sure both boxes stay wound out the same amount
for the window to be able to shut again.
When replacing the window, if you find the window closes at one side before the other, you need to remove one end of the shaft
and manually adjust the window so both sides are equal, then replace shaft.
Section C: Replace Frame Corner Insert and
Glazing Wedge.
C1) Above: Before you are able to disassemble the
window you have to remove the Glazing Wedge. This is the rubber
that fits between the frame and the glass.
The join is usually found in the centre of the top. Use a flat head
screwdriver to start removing the wedge, then pull the rest out by hand.
If the glazing wedge is firm and/or brittle we recommend replacing
it.(Search for "Glazing Wedge" on our site). Especially if
replacing glass as it can crack during installation of brittle glazing
wedge.
The glazing wedge used to hold glass or perspex in place, is
not actually the water seal. Water that enters here escapes out the
drainage holes.
C2) Above: Replacement of wedge can be done on the
bench, but we recommend you wait until the window frame is
replaced. This prevents the top edge, which is the hinge,
becoming bent during the installation or the rubber wedge.
When doing as the final step, insure winders are installed
correctly and window closed.
To install the new Glazing Wedge, spray the window and frame
with some soap and water to help the rubber slide in. The join should
be at the top centre. The rubber goes on the exterior of the window.
Use a spline roller or a flat head screwdriver to help push the Wedge
into place.
To get around a 90 degree corner, make a small cut in back of the wedge
and insert in to corner. The round corners should remain uncut. Do NOT
stretch new rubber when inserting.
C3) Above: After the Glazing Wedge is removed you
are able to disassemble the window. Remove the screws from
the SIDE at the top corners of the frame. This corner insert
can be brittle and if it is the white plastic version, we
advise to replace these, see later section.
C4) Above: The upper window frame will easily come
away from the lower frame and the glass can be removed.
C5) Above: The corner inserts can be removed and
replaced if damaged. They are available in metal and plastic
versions.
Section D: Replace Window Glass
To replace a damaged window yourself we recommend changing
to perspex especially for older windows that may have a warp or other
damage to the frame.
If you wish to stick with glass, then you may need to take the window
to a Glazier.
D1) Above: Remove and disassemble the window as previously
described. Trace the old glass on to a new sheet of 3mm perspex.
Or 3mm glass.
D2) Above: Score the straight lines part way through
from each side. Crack the remainder. Use a laminex cutter.
D3) Above: Using the sharp edge of a table line up
the score and snap the perspex to shape.
D3) Above: Corners can be rounded with a saw, a bench
grinder, or an electric sander. You don't have to get it perfect
as the frame will cover 5mm or more.
D4) Above: Remove the protective paper from the perspex
and reassemble the window and Glazing Wedge as described above.
Section E: Replace Dust Seal.
The window dust seal is the rubber strip which runs around the perimeter
of the wind-out frame.
These get brittle with age and stop sealing.
E1) Above: The end of the Seal is usually held in
its channel by a small squashed section at the end of the
frame. The first step is to release this with a flat head
screwdriver. A small amount of damage may result, but will
be pressed closed later.
E2) Above: The Dust Seal should now be able to be
pulled free by hand.
E3) Above: Clean out dirt from the Dust Seal channel
and spray the frame and rubber with some soapy water to help
the seal slide in.
E4) Above: Feed the Dust Seal in to the channel from
one end. You can use pliers to help pull the seal around the
channel while feeding it in from the end. Finally trim off
excess, and press the aluminium down to prevent the ends slipping.
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